MEN’S GUIDE TO LEATHER (and Footwear)
By: Will Kelly
Leather has been a staple of men’s footwear for centuries. In the context of fashion, it has become an essential element of the ever-inspiring creative spirit embraced by world-renowned designers and laymen alike. Leather remains continually desirable and timeless, as it is intrinsic to the evolving styles of producers. Whether it’s the turn shoes of the late antiquity period or the leather sandals of the Greeks, leather has been ingrained in menswear since the invention of the stitch. Yet, in this age of streetwear dominating men’s fashion outlets, consumers are rarely exposed to the full diversity that quality leather footwear has offered throughout fashion history (except, perhaps, for Timberland’s two-sole boots).
Leather shoes can range from fine summer boat shoes to the now-popular vintage hiking boots and more. As one might expect, quality leather attracts the masses—whether for fashion, utility, or both. Some popular names in the game include Guidi, Margiela, Frye, and Danner. These names are nearly impossible to miss in the high-end leather shoe scene right now. But why is that? All these brands embody Haute Couture and emphasize not only the importance of effortless fashion but also durable, extremely high-quality leather—crafted through meticulous and painstaking processes for the individual. The so-called “outrageous” prices can typically be attributed to these methods of manufacturing.
Style Guide:
Men’s boots are a timeless piece for the colder months, and realistically, they aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. Most boots you’ll see men wearing fall into four main categories (not including Timbs…): the formal sleek look, the hiking boot, the classic cowboy-esque boot, and the military/rustic boot.
The Guidi back zip 988, made from high-quality horse leather, is an example of a formal, sleek look that pairs well with nearly anything. For hiking boots, the Danner vintage hiking boot captures the recent craze for vintage outdoor footwear.
When it comes to cowboy boots, look no further than Frye, with their truly ageless harness boots—considered the makeshift standard for quality cowboy boots for over a century. While the final category—military and rustic-looking boots—has fallen out of favor in recent years, I would still urge those interested to check out their local military surplus store. You can often find high-quality leather boots with rugged character and long-lasting durability.
As the warmer months approach, smaller boat shoes, loafers, and derby shoes become the optimal yet stylish summer leather-based footwear. When thinking of boat shoes, most people can’t get past the infamous ‘Hey Dude’ that plagued college frat houses and country clubs for years—but I’m asking you, just this once, to make an exception.
An example worth considering is the Row’s ‘Sailor’ boat shoe, made from soft full-grain leather. It’s a modern take on the traditional boat shoe and feels like a timeless piece. For loafers, I recommend Margiela or Marsell, both of which have extensive collections of high-quality loafers and are industry standouts. For derby shoes, a personal favorite of mine is the Orée Shell Cordovan Derby, made from premium Cordovan leather, offering a unique and polished look compared to more traditional derbies.
Prices and Alternatives:
While many of these shoes and brands offer looks that are timeless, high-quality leather often comes at a steep price. It can be difficult to find comparable quality at more affordable prices without falling into the trap of fast fashion. However, I’m here to tell you that high-end leather alternatives do exist if you’re looking in the right places.
A personal favorite of mine is Walker Vietnam, a brand based in Vietnam that produces high-quality leather shoes at far more affordable prices—while still capturing the essence of Haute Couture.
Another timeless and accessible brand is Dr. Martens, which offers a wide range of leather options at significantly lower prices.
Lastly, I highly recommend secondhand leather. It’s not only the most ethical option, but also incredibly affordable and can be styled just as effortlessly as any of the previously mentioned pieces.